A Before Sunrise Tour of Vienna

When my parents asked if I’d like to go with them to Vienna, my mind automatically began swirling with dreamy snapshots from one of my favourite films of all time: Before Sunrise. This cult classic follows characters Jesse (Ethan Hawke) and Céline (Julie Deply) from their meet-cute on a train to the streets of Vienna after they impulsively decide to disembark together. They spend the day and night strolling the city, getting to know each other and, of course, falling in love. It is a beautiful film with an incredible script and perfectly naturalistic performances.

Whilst my interest in meeting an American man on a train and falling in love is minimal, my love for the film is not and so I decided I would devote a day of my trip to visiting some of the story's key locations. Upon doing some research, I discovered that a fair amount of movie magic was used when filming the couple’s journey through the city. It may appear as though each location is mere footsteps or quick tram journeys away but the reality is that the locations are scattered and require more public transport that the film ostensibly imagines. Nothing, however, could deter me from my Before Sunrise adventure so I pinpointed a few central locations, mapped my journey, and went on my way.

Note for anyone who may choose to follow my journey as a guide for their own, I did not attempt a chronological order of locations/events in the film and instead opted for the most sensical journey from my air bnb :)

Café Sperl, Gumpendorfer Strasse 11

My first stop was Café Sperl, a famous traditional Austrian café established in 1880 and the home of the famous fake-telephone-conversation scene in Before Sunrise. It is in one of the scenic booth tables that the pair share a coffee and a chat indirectly expressing their feelings through impersonations of phone conversations to friends back home. I chose a smaller table opposite so as not to take up too much space in the busy environment.

After ordering a coffee and some breakfast (Austrian cuisine of roasted bread dumplings with egg and salad), I sat back and took in the ambience. The food was lovely and the waiter complimented my book of choice (purchased the previous day at Vienna's Shakespeare and Company bookstore), The Midnight Library by Matt Haig, deeming it one of his favourites.

Albertina Palais Museum, Augustinerstrasse 1

I wandered from Café Sperl to the Opera House, crossed the street and went up the stairs of the Albertina Museum to look out on the backdrop of one of Jesse and Celine's evening meanders. I found the exact part of the wall where they stopped and took some pictures.

A black lamppost has grown since their visit, but the view remains just as impressive, with the Vienna Opera House standing in all its glory. My Mum and I were lucky enough to see a show the morning before, so the building was a familiar site by this point in my trip; not one, however, that I'd ever grow tired of.

Kleines Café, Franziskanerplatz 3

Probably one of my favourite scenes in the film and one of the best locations I visited was the Kleines Café.

Jesse and Celine share a coffee outside of this adorable, and as the name implies, small café. They're approached by a gypsy palm reader to Celine's intrigue and Jesse's cynicism. The conversation that ensures afterwards perfectly encapsulates the character's personalities and differences and is full of charm and wit.

My mum joined me here, for a peppermint tea and a Sachertorte (a delicious Austrian cake that became a daily treat on my trip).

Prater, Riesenradplatz 1

Next stop was Prater Amusement Park, an attraction I had been meaning to go to so was happy to visit as part of my film tour. Jesse and Celine take a ride on the big wheel providing a monumental moment in the film: their first kiss.

Now, admittedly, the cost of the ride and the ridiculously long queue coming from it were not factors I had considered. So, me and my mum settled for admiring the wheel from afar and instead walked through the funfair to find a very tall swing ride for half the price and plenty of fun.

Zollamtssteg Bridge

A short tram ride away is the bridge that Jesse and Celine wander across at the beginning of the film after leaving the train station. On the bridge they encounter a humorous duo who invite them to see their play.

I dragged my mum here to take photos of me in the same position as the characters above. I was feeling a bit silly until I saw a group of girls on the other side of the bridge who were there for the same reason! They took videos of each other walking and talking like the characters and we exchanged knowing smiles whilst we admired a piece of Jesse and Celine's journey.

Alt und Neu, Windmühlgasse 10

Last, and certainly not least, the famous record store! Jesse and Celine flick through records here before entering a booth to listen to "Come Here" by Kath Bloom.

Each wall of the store is lined from top to bottom with vinyls and a row of record players sit near the checkout for you to test before you buy. Whilst the listening booth seems now to be storage, the owners have placed the movie poster on its door to ensure fans know they're in the right place.

I met more fellow film nerds in here, including a girl jumping up and down in excitement with her slightly embarrassed, but definitely also buzzing, boyfriend. I walked away with a vinyl and a tote bag as a memoir of my adventures.

I would recommend these locations to anyone visiting Vienna, whether you have seen the film or not, they were all lovely landmarks. Of course, I would more favourably recommend that you watch the film before you visit, it makes walking around the gorgeous city even more magical, giving it a truly filmic feel.